How to Buy an Emerald Gemstone – A Comprehensive Guide

The emerald is the most famous and recognizable member of the beryl family. It is the quintessential green gemstone and has been used since antiquity.

Throughout history, emeralds were classed as one of the 5 cardinal gemstones, which were considered superior to all other stones.

If you’re looking to purchase an emerald, whether loose or set in jewelry, there are several factors to consider to avoid getting ripped off. Let’s take a look at what you need to know before you buy an emerald.

What Is an Emerald?

emerald earrings with diamond halo on a girl
See more emerald jewelry here.

Emeralds, along with morganite and aquamarine, come from the illustrious mineral family, beryl. It is easily the most popular and valuable type of beryl and also the easiest to recognize. The majority of emeralds come from mines in Colombia, Zambia, and Brazil but emeralds can also be found in China, India and Zimbabwe.

Emeralds are formed deep in the earth, in the cracks and crevices of mineral-rich rocks such as granite. As the rocks heat up, certain minerals seep out cracks creating a perfect place for gemstones to form and grow.

Emeralds receive their color from the presence of chromium and sometimes iron and vanadium, and the color of emeralds can be correlated to their source of origin. For example, Colombian emeralds tend to be a leafy, dark green while Zambian emeralds are often green with a tinge of bluishness.

Choosing Emerald Color

loose emerald with inclusions
See emeralds on James Allen

It goes without saying that color is the most important feature of an emerald. After all, the very word emerald is synonymous with green and if it’s not green, it’s not an emerald.

Unlike many other gemstones such as emeralds and diamonds, emeralds come only in the color green. Emeralds can come in a range of greens, from vivid and vibrant to pale and limp.

When evaluating the color of an emerald, there are three main things we must take into consideration: huetone, and saturation.

colombian emerald dangle earrings
Lab-created emerald earrings. See this here.

1. Emerald Hue

Hue refers to the primary and secondary colors of the gemstone which, in the case of emeralds, will always be green with possible secondary colors of yellow or blue. Over 70% of emeralds on the market come from Colombia, which typically produces bluish-green emeralds.

2. Emerald Tone

The tone refers to how light or dark the emerald is. The best emeralds have a medium tone and are neither too light nor too dark. An emerald that is too light can appear limp and inexpensive, while an emerald that is too dark will not have the vibrancy and color that emeralds are known for.

3. Emerald Saturation

Saturation refers to the intensity and strength of the color present in the emerald. The higher the saturation, the more vivid the color, which then correlates to higher prices.

To recap, an ideal emerald will have a medium to light tone with high saturation and a bright green hue.

Color Zoning and Pleochroism in Emeralds

Green emerald gemstone
See more loose emeralds here.

In emeralds, the color should be evenly distributed across the stone without any major color zoning. Color zoning would appear as a strip or section of the stone that has a different color than the majority of the stone. For example, a vibrant green emerald with one strip of blue would be an emerald with color zoning.

This is not to be confused with pleochroism. Pleochroism in emeralds is the appearance of different colors from different angles. This is also less than ideal in an emerald but may be incredibly valued in other stones.

Choosing Emerald Clarity

emerald stone listing
Emeralds tend to have inclusions. See these here.

Emeralds are commonly found with inclusions, and it is incredibly difficult to find a stone free of blemishes. Natural emeralds are among the most included of all gemstone varieties. During their formation, liquids, gases and trace minerals get trapped in the stone.  In fact, if there are no inclusions at all in the stone, there is a high chance that what you have isn’t a natural emerald.

Emerald inclusions, which often resemble long vines and tendrils, have been given the term ‘jardin’, meaning garden in French. These inclusions contribute to the beautiful color of emeralds, and so have come to be accepted. When searching for an emerald, you want to find a stone that has higher transparency and fewer inclusions, but these are also the priciest.

cut emerald gemstone
Notice the jardin in this emerald.

The inclusions in an emerald are often a good way of identifying if the stone is natural or fake. Ensure that you see a clear image of the actual emerald prior to purchase and look for its jardin. Emeralds with bubble-like and unnaturally arranged inclusions are often fake stones.

Choosing Emerald Carat

As with most gemstones the size of the stone directly correlates with the cost. The larger the emerald the greater the cost. There are many private collectors and museums that own emeralds that weigh hundreds of carats. These are incredibly large and probably not suited for everyday wear or use.

When it comes to emeralds, a smaller stone with better color will be considered more valuable than a larger stone with poor color. The carat size you choose will depend on your budget and the purpose of buying the emerald. With emeralds, a little often goes a long way so you can still have a dazzling piece of jewelry with an emerald of a small size.

Choosing Emerald Cut

Emerald-cut emerald gemstone ring
Emerald cut gemstone. Find it here.

When it comes to emeralds, the cut should maximize the color of the stone, rather than its brilliance, which is the case with colorless diamonds. Symmetrical, open, and uniform facets are ideal to promote the color and brilliance of emeralds.

One of the most traditional cuts for an emerald is the emerald cut. This cut has large open facets, which enhances the color and size of the emerald. It also reduces waste and makes the most of the emerald rough.

Emerald eternity necklace
Emerald eternity necklace. See it here.

While this cut may be ideal for an emerald, another very favored cut is a round cut. This is an ideal cut for rings and especially engagement rings because it works to display the shine and brilliance of the emerald and is also incredibly elegant when paired with diamonds. This, however, is more expensive as it wastes a lot of the emerald rough.

Some other popular shapes for emeralds are oval, pear, cabochon, hearts, and cushion.

Types of Emerald Jewelry

mila-kunis wearing green emerald necklace
Mila Kunis wearing a stunning Zambian emerald necklace. Source.

Emeralds work well with all types of jewelry, suiting a range of styles. They’ve been used for over 5000 years in jewelry and have come to represent prestige, luxury, and wealth, and are often worn on the red carpet.

Green Emerald Bracelet
Emerald and bracelet. Find it here.

From large emerald pendants or brooches to small stud earrings, the emerald will enhance the beauty of any wearer.

Emeralds are often times paired with diamonds, yellow emeralds, or other colored gemstones. The emerald is also a common purchase for people born in May as it is the birthstone of May.

What About Emerald Engagement Rings?

Emerald and diamond ring
Diamond ring with emerald accent stones. See it here.

You might be wondering: Are emeralds a good choice for engagement rings? Emeralds are not very durable and can easily break or chip so this must be taken into consideration before you make your decision. However, many people choose emerald engagement rings and with proper care and careful wear, these rings can last a lifetime.

The emerald is a symbol of hope and is thought to preserve love, which is the perfect symbolism for an engagement ring. They also represent growth, peace, balance, fertility, a strong bond, and healing.

Emerald double halo ring
Emerald engagement ring with double halo diamond. See it here.

If you do decide to choose an emerald engagement ring, you have an array of setting options to choose from. Emeralds pair well with diamonds, which gives the stone an extra burst of brilliance.

Settings such as halo, three stone, and pave are ideal, as they bring out the beautiful pairing of diamonds and emeralds. You can choose to have the emerald as the center stone or as the accent stone.

Yellow gold emerald ring
Emerald engagement ring. See it here.

The vibrant green color of emerald pairs well with any metal color. Yellow and rose gold has a classic, sophisticated look when paired with emeralds, while white gold has a more modern, contrasting appearance.

Synthetic Green Emeralds

synthetic emerald listing
See more lab-created emeralds on Brilliant Earth

Lab-created emeralds are a great option for a budget and environmentally-friendly alternative. These are created in labs using scientific methods and time-taking processes.

Lab-created, or synthetic, emeralds are actual emeralds, made of the same material as mined emeralds so it is incorrect to assume that these are fake. However, they will not have the same type of inclusions that you find in mined emeralds.

While synthetic emeralds are not as expensive as mined stones, they are still relatively pricey.

However, beware of imitation emeralds, which are substances such as glass or colored quartz, often passed off as emeralds. These have little to no value and you can easily be ripped off if you aren’t careful.

Are There Emerald Treatments?

Emerald cut emerald
Emeralds are generally heat-treated.

The majority of emeralds receive various treatments to enhance their color, clarity and stability. Treatments are a common industry practice, but it is essential that your vendor discloses this information to you. It is also important to know to what extent the gemstone has been treated.

Emerald Oil Treatments

This is the traditional treatment for emeralds. Oiling emeralds to fill internal fractures is one way of improving the color and hiding inclusions.

However, while this method has its benefits, on the flip side over time the oil wears off making the enhancement temporary. What’s more, oiling can hide the flaws of an emerald to the extent that you won’t know how fragile the stone is.

Oiling is often carried out directly at mines or prior to the stone reaching vendors, so most times, even the vendors won’t know to what extent the stone has been improved.

Polymer and Prepolymer Fillers

These fillers are more permanent and were introduced as an alternative to oil fillers. These fillers have caused some controversy in the gemstone industry, especially where the type of filler has not been disclosed.

What Do Emeralds Symbolize?

emerald crystals for healing
Emerald crystals. See these here.

The emerald represents love, truth, and passion in relationships. Some believe that it can bring people together as a symbol of love. It is also a symbol of hope and the future.

Many people associate the emerald with the fresh green hues of springtime, which associate it with renewal, life, vitality, and fertility. As emerald is the birthstone of May, this association with spring is apt for those living in the northern hemisphere.

Some people believe that when you look deep into your emerald you can almost see a garden blooming in its depths. This is the observers seeing small inclusions in the stone, but it is an appealing feature nonetheless.

One who wears emeralds can hope to feel its powers of tranquility and peace, renewal and growth.

How to Care for Emeralds

emerald gemstone

Emeralds rank 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale making them fairly scratch-resistant. However, due to their many inclusions, they are extremely susceptible to cracking and chipping. It’s necessary to take appropriate care of your emerald if you want it to last a long time.

Avoid using ultrasonic cleaners as these can exacerbate the fissures in the stone. It’s best to clean the stone or jewelry by hand using soap, water, and mild soap. It’s also important to dry your stone thoroughly after cleaning. Don’t let the emerald sit with water on it for too long as this can damage the stone and setting.

When storing your emerald, it is a good idea to store it alone or in its own protective jewelry box or bag. This will not only protect your emerald from other harder stones that could get shuffled around but it will protect your softer stones from being damaged by the emerald.

It is important, however, to protect your stone from harsh chemicals. This means removing your emerald jewelry before applying makeup or handling detergents.

Where to Buy Emerald Jewelry

Emerald Earrings
Emerald earrings in yellow gold. See these here.

Purchasing an emerald can be done either online or in person. Shopping in person will allow you to try on various pieces and get an up-close look at a particular piece before investing in it. However, shopping online will give you endless options and allow you to browse within a specific price range and check various styles.

Online prices are also almost always more competitive than in-store. Ensure that you purchase from a retailer that has excellent after-sales policies, especially a good returns policy. If you decide to purchase your emerald online, we recommend the following sites:

  • James AllenOne of the best when it comes to engagement rings and diamonds, James Allen’s emerald selection is impressive. The loose gemstones and ready-made emerald jewelry are of high quality and come at reasonable price points.
  • Blue NileKnown for its massive inventory of diamonds, Blue Nile also offers a variety of gemstones. For competitively priced emerald jewelry, check out Blue Nile’s selection.
  • Brilliant EarthKnown for quality craftsmanship and high-quality natural and synthetic emerald jewelry and loose gemstones, Brilliant Earth also has excellent after-sales policies and customer service. However, the price points can be higher than some of the other stores listed here.
  • EtsyEtsy has a wide range of emerald jewelry, from authentic antiques to inexpensive dyed emerald jewelry. This gives you a wide range of options to suit all tastes and budgets. Again, do your due diligence, and ensure that the store is reputable. Check out our guide on how to shop on Etsy if you’d like some pointers.

Wrapping Up

Emeralds are one of the most highly valued and sought after stones. Their imperfect beauty make them stunning gemstones for jewelry, with each stone being unique. If a natural emerald is beyond your budget, a synthetic gemstone makes for an excellent choice.

Emerald gemstone infografic

Dani Rhys

Dani Rhys has worked as a writer and editor for over 15 years in the jewelry niche. She holds a Masters degree in Linguistics and Education. She has always been interested in expression through fashion and accessories, and her extensive experience in the field has made her a respected voice in jewelry trends and education. As the chief editor of Jewelry Shopping Guide, she not only leads the content strategy but also shares her insights through engaging articles. Her passion for storytelling is reflected in every piece she curates, exploring the intricate relationship between jewelry and personal identity.

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